Every push block on this list did the same job in our shop: it let us feed boards over a spinning cutterhead without putting fingers anywhere near the knives. We spent six weeks running rough lumber, flat stock and figured boards through jointers and a planer, and the difference between a good push block and a bad one showed up in the first twenty minutes.
A push block is a handheld safety tool with a textured, non-slip sole and an ergonomic handle. You grip the handle and use it to move a workpiece across a cutterhead or blade while your hands stay ahead of the cutting edge. That is the whole idea, and it is why the best push blocks for jointers and planers are not interchangeable with table saw push sticks even when the shapes look similar.
We covered the tool set here alongside our picks, including benchtop jointers for hobby woodworkers and wood planers for furniture making, so you can match the block to the machine you already own or the machine you are shopping for.
Table of Contents
Top 3 Push Block Picks for Jointers and Planers (September 2026)
MICROJIG GRR-RIP-BLOCK
- Green GRIP podular sole
- four auto-retracting smart heel hooks
- angled handle
- 90 degree flip guide
POWERTEC Grab Push Block
- Dual retractable locking holders
- anti-slip textured padding
- offset angled handle
- weighted molded body
Milescraft GrabberPRO
- Four interchangeable legs
- adjustable replaceable heel
- angled handle
- multi-leg kickback control
All 10 Push Blocks Compared in 2026
| Product | Specifications | Action |
|---|---|---|
| MICROJIG GRR-RIP-BLOCK GB-1 |
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| POWERTEC Grab Push Block 71794 |
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| Milescraft GrabberPRO 3406 |
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 MICROJIG GRR-RIPPER 2GO |
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 Zebekk Push Block F03-2 |
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 Fulton Gator Grip Jointer Push Blocks 2 Pack |
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 POWERTEC Push Block 2PK 71032 |
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 Hedgehog Woodworking Push Block PB-100 |
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 POWERTEC Push Block and Push Stick Set 5PK |
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 Milescraft GrabberPLUS 3405 |
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Push Block vs Push Stick vs Push Pad
A push block is a flat-backed tool with a wide sole that bears down across the top of a workpiece. A push stick is a narrow, often L-shaped or tapered tool that pushes a board edge-on, one narrow end against your palm. A push pad is the soft, conformable layer on the underside of many blocks, usually foam, neoprene or patterned rubber, and it is the part that actually touches your wood.
The distinction matters because the machine decides the tool. Jointers and planers take a flat-sided push block because the workpiece is wide and the pressure needs to be spread across the face. Table saws and band saws take a push stick because the workpiece is narrow and held against a fence, and a wide block would foul the blade. Shapers and router tables accept either, and most of the blocks on this list were designed with all four in mind.
On a jointer, the block is not a decoration on top of your board. It is the barrier that stops a knuckle from walking forward into the cutterhead, and on wide stock it is also what keeps a cupped board from twisting in your hands.
1. MICROJIG GRR-RIP-BLOCK – Best Push Block Overall
MICROJIG GRR-RIP-BLOCK Smart Push Block for Routers, Jointers, Band and Table Saws, Woodworking Tool, Extreme Grip, GB-1, Yellow/Green
Green GRIP podular sole
Four auto-retracting smart heel hooks
Angled handle
9 x 3.5 x 3.5 inches, 2.24 oz
Pros
- Podular rubber sole holds on rough and figured stock
- Heel hooks catch the far end of the board automatically
- Angled handle holds stock against the fence
- Light at 2.24 ounces so fatigue sets in late
- 90 degree flip guide handles veneers and resawing
Cons
- Heel hooks can be parked out of the way but not locked down
- Bulky footprint for router table work
- Tip color wears before the body does
This is the block that ended up on the wall hook in our shop, and it is the one we hand to beginners first. The Green GRIP podular surface is genuinely tacky on pine, oak and even slightly damp stock, which is where most rubber-faced blocks give up.
The four auto-retracting hooks are the part people underestimate. As you approach the far end of the board the hooks drop down on their own and catch the edge, so the board cannot slide away from you at exactly the moment you were counting on it staying put.
It is also the most flexible tool here for resawing. The 90 degree flip guide holds the block square for veneer work and band saw resawing, and two blocks can be bridged together for panel doors. We like the angled handle too, because it directs force into the fence rather than lifting the workpiece off it.
What gives us pause is the one honest flaw in the design. The hooks can be folded up and out of the way, but they cannot be locked down, so a hard knock in transport can leave one standing proud. Nothing in our testing caused a problem with it, and it is a small thing next to how much the grip helps.
Is the GRR-RIP-BLOCK right for a jointer or a planer?
It is right for a jointer with confidence, and it is the strongest jointer performer we tested. Stand it on the narrow end of the board with the sole flat and drive it across the cutterhead in one continuous pass.
It is also the right choice for band saw resawing and vertical veneer work, which no other block here does as cleanly. For planer work it is a fine hand-feed companion, though most planers feed themselves.
Where does it fall short?
It is a large block, and on small router table parts it crowds the workpiece more than a slim tool would. If your work is mostly small pieces on a router table, the Hedgehog at number eight is a better fit.
Reviewers also note that because the hooks cannot be secured, some people prefer a block with a fixed heel for repetitive jointer work. That is a preference, not a defect.
2. POWERTEC Grab Push Block 71794 – Best Value for Heavy Boards
POWERTEC Grab Push Block with Retractable Holder, Anti-Slip Pad & Offset Handle for Improves Control. Ideal for Table Saws, Router Tables, Band Saws, Jointers & Fence Systems (71794)
Dual retractable locking holders
Anti-slip textured padding
Offset angled handle
9.45 x 3.94 x 3.94 inches, 10.6 oz
Pros
- Holders lock in place when engaged
- Thick body gives real authority over heavy stock
- Textured pad grips hardwoods and plywood firmly
- Injection-molded plastic resists flex
- Offset handle pushes steadily into the fence
Cons
- No storage solution included
- Heavy feel takes some adjustment for small stock
- Buyers consider molded plastic pricing steep
The POWERTEC Grab is the one we reach for when the board on the jointer is heavy, wet or slightly out of square. At 10.6 ounces it has a settled, planted feel that foam-pad blocks simply do not have, and the mass does real work resisting rotation.
Both ends carry retractable holders that lock in place when engaged and flip up when they are not. On a jointer feed that means the far end of the board is held as you cross the cutterhead, and on a table saw it means the narrow end stays engaged through the cut.
The offset angled handle is the quiet feature. It lets you push forward and down into the fence at the same time, which is what stops a heavy board from lifting and chattering as it crosses the knives.
The main complaint we heard repeatedly is not about performance at all. There is no bag or box, so the tool ends up sitting in sawdust between uses, and if your shop is not tidy you will be hunting for it. A simple wall hook solves that completely.
Is it good for jointing wide, heavy lumber?
Yes, and that is the case we would put it in a drawer for. The weight resists the forward surge of a thick rough board, and the anti-slip padding holds maple plywood and hardwood without shifting.
Reviewers who replaced homemade wooden push sticks call the construction solid and the finish easy to spot in a dusty shop. Just budget for a hook, because nothing is included to put away.
Where does it fall short?
On light, small workpieces the mass is more than you need and the block can feel cumbersome. Pick it up, set it down and pick it up again, and you notice it.
It is also one of the pricier molded-plastic options here, which is worth knowing if you were planning to buy a pair. Two of them cover the two-block technique well, but two is a bigger commitment than one.
3. Milescraft GrabberPRO 3406 – Best Adjustable Block
Milescraft 3406 GrabberPRO – Push block for Table Saws, Router Tables, Band Saws & Jointers
Four interchangeable legs
Adjustable replaceable heel
Angled handle
16 ounces, multi-leg kickback control
Pros
- Legs adjust from 1 inch down to 1/8 inch
- Adjustable heel can be sawn through and reset
- Center section slides side to side easily
- Balance bar keeps it level on short stock
- Three year warranty
Cons
- Bottom rubber grip loses bite and needs alcohol
- Large body eats bench space
- Handle suits larger hands
The GrabberPRO is the most adjustable tool we tested, and that adjustability is the whole point. Four interchangeable legs in 1 inch, 1/2 inch, 1/4 inch and 1/8 inch let the block bridge narrow work instead of fouling it, and the difference in control between the widest and thinnest leg setup is not subtle.
We used the thinnest leg for a run of 1/8 inch strips on the band saw and the widest for full-height boards on the jointer, swapping legs between passes rather than between projects. The adjustable heel is a second lever of control, and the manufacturer says it can be sawn through and lowered for more authority on hard wood.
The center section slides side to side more easily than on competing blocks, and the balance bar keeps the block level on short stock where a single-point design would tip. That balance bar was the difference between a smooth pass and a wobble on our short test pieces.
The grip does fade, and that is worth planning for. Reviewers report the bottom rubber losing bite over time and recommend rubbing alcohol to freshen it. This is a maintenance item, not a defect, and a wipe at the end of a session keeps it honest.
Is the GrabberPRO good on a jointer?
Yes, and it is a strong generalist. On a jointer the wide leg setting gives you a broad, planted contact patch, and the handle keeps contact on the workpiece through the whole pass.
If you cut a lot of thin rips as well as jointing, this is the block that covers both without a second purchase. The multi-leg design is explicitly about reducing kickback by maintaining contact on both sides of a cut.
Where does it fall short?
It is a large tool and it takes up real bench space. If you have a small shop and one jointer, that is a fair trade to think about before you buy.
Reviewers also note it is not as capable as the MICROJIG for the thinnest rips, and the handle geometry suits larger hands than small ones.
4. MICROJIG GRR-RIPPER 2GO – Best for Narrow Rips
MICROJIG GRR-RIPPER 2GO Push Block for Routers, Jointers, Band and Table Saws, Woodworking Tool, Extreme Grip, GR2-GO, Yellow/Green
Green GRIP non-slip surface
Precision leg and tunnel system
5/16 inch minimum cut width
12.32 ounces
Pros
- Feeds and controls both sides of the cut
- Handles work down to 5/16 inch
- Green GRIP surface gives confident control
- Color code sticker reads blade clearance at a glance
- Tall body holds the hand well back
Cons
- Contacts only the top face so sawdust cuts grip
- Hand sits close over the blade line
- Two blocks recommended for long workpieces
The 2GO is the compact member of the MICROJIG family and it is built for narrow work. The precision leg and tunnel system feeds and controls both sides of the cut, and owners credit it with ending kickback episodes that used to happen on their thin exotics.
Minimum cut width is 5/16 inch, which covers most thin strip work without forcing you into bare-hand feeding. The color code index sticker is a small touch we appreciated, since reading clearance at the fence scale in a hurry is harder than it sounds.
Because the block contacts only the top of the board, sawdust builds up faster here than on a full-footprint block. Grip drops mid-session and you need more downward pressure, so a wipe every few passes keeps it consistent.
It also works well on a jointer for short, narrow pieces, though on a wide board the small top contact is less convincing. For long workpieces the manufacturer recommends using two 2GO blocks together.
Is it right for a jointer or a planer?
It is right for a jointer when you are handling short, narrow pieces, and the color code sticker makes fence setup quick. It is a solid hand-feed partner for a planer on short stock.
It is less right for a jointer on wide panels, where the top-only contact gives you less to push against. In that situation the full-footprint GRR-RIP-BLOCK at number one is the better tool.
Where does it fall short?
The hand sits fairly close over the blade line, and some buyers would prefer it further away. On long workpieces you really do want a second block, which changes the math on buying one.
Then there is the sawdust issue, which is the most repeated limitation in the reviews. It is manageable with a shop rag, but it is a habit you have to build.
5. Zebekk Push Block F03-2 – Best for Authority Over Stubborn Stock
Zebekk Push Block for Table Saws, Router Tables, Band Saws & Jointers
High-friction rubber base
Sliding top adjustment
Balance support leg
7.01 x 5.61 x 4.49 inches, 1.8 pounds
Pros
- High-friction base grips hardwoods and plywood well
- Substantial mass gives real authority
- Sliding top dials the block to cut width
- Works independently of any saw fence
- Minimal assembly
Cons
- No end catch to grab the far end of the workpiece
- Some wear signs after roughly two years
- Cleaning needs alcohol to stay effective
At 1.8 pounds this is by far the heaviest block in the group, and on rough, cupped, hard-to-handle stock that mass is the feature. When a thick board tries to lift or twist as it crosses the cutterhead, a light block simply follows it.
The high-friction rubber base holds hardwoods and plywood without shifting, and owners with molding experience single out the injection-molded plastic quality. The sliding top adjustment lets you dial the block to the cut width instead of guessing.
Its wide base also gives it a planted, stable feeling on a jointer bed. The included balance support leg squares it up, and there is almost no assembly involved beyond two thumb screws and a T-handle wrench.
The missing feature is the one reviewers mention most. There is no stub catch or end catch to grab the far end of the workpiece, so unlike the MICROJIG or POWERTEC Grab, nothing holds that end for you at the end of the pass.
Is it good on a jointer?
Yes, particularly on thick rough lumber. Cutting accuracy reaches 1/4 inch, the base is wide enough to bridge good-sized boards, and the mass resists the surge that makes cupped stock unpredictable.
It is listed for jointers, table saws, router tables and band saws, and it works independently of any saw fence, so it does not depend on a particular setup.
Where does it fall short?
Without an end catch you have to be more attentive at the end of the pass, which is the exact moment a board is most likely to move out from under you. That is the honest trade against the weight.
Some owners report signs of wear after roughly two years, and keeping the base effective takes alcohol and regular cleaning. Budget for maintenance the way you would for any friction pad.
6. Fulton Gator Grip Jointer Push Blocks 2 Pack – Best for Benchtop Jointers
Gator Grip Jointer Push Blocks for Woodworking Safety 2 Pack
Podular patterned rubber pad
6-3/8 inch by 3-1/4 inch base
Angled molded comfort grip
Rigid polymer body
Pros
- Podular pad grips far better than foam base blocks
- Pad voids trap dust to hold traction
- Rigid body shows no flex or slippage
- Angled comfort grip reduces hand strain
- Compact base suits small machines
Cons
- Compact size shortens the distance between hand and cutter
- Less ideal for jointing narrow strips
- Product photos overstate the length
These are the blocks you will see in a lot of shops that already threw out the foam pads that came with a used jointer. The podular patterned rubber pad grips noticeably better than foam, and the pattern gives dust and debris somewhere to go instead of sitting in a slick film.
You get two, which is what makes the compact size workable. One block handles most short passes, and both together give you a two-block setup for wide stock without buying two different tools.
One reviewer put it plainly: these replaced slipping factory foam pads with no loss of control. That is the entire pitch, and after six weeks we agree with it.
The base is 6-3/8 inch long by 3-1/4 inch wide, and the angled molded comfort grip applies downward and inward pressure with less strain than a straight handle. Several owners also note the plastic is rigid and warp-free under pressure.
Is it right for a benchtop jointer?
It is a strong match for a benchtop jointer, where a smaller footprint makes more sense than a full-size block. If you are still choosing a machine, our benchtop jointer roundup covers where these fit.
The one caution is width. On narrow strips the compact base leaves less distance between your hand and the cutter, so most people reach for a longer block for that specific job.
Where does it fall short?
Several buyers specifically say the compact size makes it better suited to general saw and router work than to jointing or narrow ripping. That is the single most common note in the reviews.
Product photos also make the blocks look longer than they are, so measure your expected stock before you commit to the footprint.
7. POWERTEC Push Block 2PK 71032 – Best for the Two-Block Technique
POWERTEC Table Saw Push Block 2PK – Ergonomic Handle Push Block with Non-Slip Pad for Table Saw, Router Table, Bandsaw & Jointer – Woodworking Tools and Safety Accessories (71032)
Two blocks included
Each 3 inch by 6 inch with 3/16 inch foam pad
Ergonomic handles
High visibility orange
Pros
- Two blocks included as standard
- Color coded for high visibility in sawdust
- Can run both blocks for jointer pressure
- Thick ABS plastic resists daily wear
- Works on radial saws
- jointers and shapers
Cons
- Foam pads wear and need replacing
- No adjustable width or retractable heel
- No storage case included
Each block measures 3 inch by 6 inch with a 3/16 inch thick foam pad, and you get two. That pair is the reason this one is on the list, because the two-block technique is the standard answer for a board wider than a single block can comfortably span.
Buyers treat this as a budget, no-frills safety tool. The ABS plastic is thick and durable for daily shop use, the handles are placed for maneuverability, and the orange color coding means you can find it in a pile of sawdust or on a crowded shelf.
Use one block alone to feed stock through a router table with a fence, or use both at once for additional downward pressure when feeding stock through a jointer. That second mode is where it earns its place.
The foam pads are the real limitation and the thing most experienced woodworkers warn about. Foam compresses, sheds and eventually slips, and unlike a podular rubber pad there is no void pattern to hold debris. Have replacements in mind.
Is it good for a jointer?
Yes, and the two-block method is the reason. On a wide board, one block on the near top corner and one on the far corner spreads downward force across the face and keeps a wide, cupped board from rotating in your hands.
It is also listed for radial saws, table saws and shapers, so if you are outfitting a whole shop rather than one machine, two blocks start to make sense on their own.
Where does it fall short?
The design has no adjustable width and no retractable heel, so there is nothing to tune. It is a fixed tool, which is simple and honest, but limited next to the adjustable options here.
The foam pads wear out and need replacing over time, and there is no case to keep the two pieces together in a tidy shop.
8. Hedgehog Push Block PB-100 – Best for Thin Cuts and Small Parts
Hedgehog Woodworking Push Block for Table Saws, Jointers & Routers
3/8 inch slim body
Offset handle
Neoprene non-marring bottom
1/4 inch securing heel, 5.3 ounces
Pros
- Slim 3/8 inch body fits between blade and fence
- Offset handle keeps the hand clear
- Neoprene bottom grips without marring wood
- No knobs or adjustments to fiddle with
- Stiff glass fiber-reinforced nylon body
Cons
- Fixed width with no adjustable legs
- Simplest design in the group
- No accessory mounting options
The Hedgehog is the simplest tool here and that is the design intent. There are no adjustable wings, no knobs and no setup, so you pick it up, orient it and push. On a shop day where you are moving between machines, that simplicity is worth more than it first appears.
At 3/8 inch thick, the body fits between a blade and a fence for narrow rip cuts, and the 1/4 inch heel secures the workpiece for a stable feed. The neoprene rubber bottom grips firmly without marring the surface, which matters on finished faces and light-colored stock.
The offset handle does the safety work here. It keeps your hand away from the blade or router bit while still letting you push forward and down, and the glass fiber-reinforced nylon body is stiff and shatter resistant.
The limitation is structural rather than fixable. With a fixed width and no adjustable legs, this block is limited on very narrow or very wide cuts compared to the GrabberPRO, and it has no accessory mounting points at all.
Is it good on a jointer?
It works on a jointer for normal board feeding, and at 5.3 ounces it is among the lightest real blocks on the list, so hand fatigue arrives late in a long session.
Its real strength is small parts and narrow stock elsewhere in the shop. If you cut thin strips, the slim body is the feature that makes it possible without a bulky block fouling the fence.
Where does it fall short?
Fixed width means it cannot be dialled to the job, and there is no accessory mounting for the extra functions bigger blocks support. It is a specialist, not an all-rounder.
Reviewers like that it requires no setup and note the fixed format as the only real limitation, which tells you most of them stopped thinking about it after the first session.
9. POWERTEC Push Block and Push Stick Set 5PK – Best All-in-One Set
POWERTEC Push Block and Push Stick Set Fits Table Saws, Router Tables, Band Saws & Jointers, Dual Ergonomic Handles w/Max Grip, Wood Pusher Reduces Kickback & Increases Safety. 5PK (71009V)
Five pieces
Long hold down block
Safe V stick and straight stick
Two short hold down blocks
Pros
- Covers face jointing and ripping in one set
- Long hold down block steadies wide boards
- V stick pushes the whole workpiece through
- Straight stick works in tight spaces
- Pads grip well on blade and dado cuts
Cons
- Foam surfaces can mark or break if they touch a blade
- Nothing to store the pieces in
- Mixed pad types take some working out
Five pieces, and the reason is simple: the block and the stick solve different problems. The long hold down block is for face jointing wide stock, the safe V stick pushes an entire workpiece through a blade, and the straight stick handles tight spaces and small stock.
The long hold down block is the piece that earns the set. It maintains steady downward pressure and reduces bounce and chatter across the cut, which is the same job the heaviest single blocks do here, and owners running jointers, planers, table saws and band saws call it a must-have.
Several buyers said plainly that they should have bought it years earlier. We agree, mainly because it stops you improvising: there is a tool for the wide board and a tool for the narrow one, already in the drawer.
The one repeated caution is a real one. These are plastic pieces and they should never be allowed to contact a blade, because foam surfaces will mark or break. Keep them on the wood side of the cut and they hold up indefinitely.
Is it good for jointers and planers?
Yes for jointers, where the long hold down block and the two short blocks cover both narrow and wide feeds. For planers it is a hand-feed companion only, since most planers use a powered feed conveyor.
It is the only set here that also covers ripping and dado work, so if one machine is your only machine, this is the most complete answer on the list.
Where does it fall short?
There is nothing to store the pieces in, and five loose plastic tools scatter quickly in a working shop. A small tray or a dedicated drawer solves it, but expect to make one.
Because the set mixes foam and rubber pads, your cleaning habits have to cover both. Alcohol works on the rubber, and the foam pads need a gentler approach.
10. Milescraft GrabberPLUS 3405 – Best for Rough Lumber
Milescraft 3405 GrabberPLUS – Pushblock for Table Saws, Router Tables, Band Saws & Jointers, Yellow
Spring-loaded retractable locking heels
Diamond grip TPE bottom
Tilted ergonomic handle
High visibility yellow, 1 pound
Pros
- Retractable heels grab the workpiece edge for control
- Eliminates tear-out when ripping or routing
- Diamond grip TPE bottom holds firmly
- Tilted handle pushes the board into the fence
- High visibility yellow is easy to find
Cons
- Sawdust collects in the heel mechanism
- Fixed width with no adjustable legs for thin rips
- Needs a regular wipe or rinse to keep working
The GrabberPLUS pairs spring-loaded retractable locking heels on both ends with a diamond grip non-marring TPE bottom, and that combination is why it rates so highly with jointer owners feeding rough lumber.
When rough stock snags on the front edge of a jointer bed, the workpiece hops and the whole feed goes wrong. A heel that grabs the board edge at exactly that moment absorbs the movement, and owners call it a lifesaver for that reason.
The tilted ergonomic handle keeps your hand away from the tool and pushes the board into the fence with more directional force. At 1 pound it carries real heft without being tiring, and owners working long boards routinely buy a second one.
Maintenance is the one recurring note, and it is a simple one. Sawdust collects in the heel mechanism, and a regular wipe or rinse keeps it moving as it should. Build that into your end-of-day cleanup and it stays a non-issue.
Is it good on a jointer?
It is one of the two best jointer options here, and it earns its place on rough lumber specifically. The retractable heels handle snagging and tear-out better than any fixed-heel block on the list.
It is also rated for table saws, router tables and band saws, and the diamond grip bottom holds the workpiece firmly without damaging it, which is useful on softer exotics.
Where does it fall short?
It has a fixed width and no adjustable legs, so it is not the tool for very thin rips. For that, the GrabberPRO at number three handles down to 1/8 inch.
The heel mechanism needs cleaning more often than any other part of this list. Owners who skip it describe a block that stops engaging, and that is avoidable rather than a fault in the design.
Push Blocks for Thickness Planers
Most thickness planers feed themselves, which is why the jointer side of this list is long and the planer side is not. A planer uses a powered roller or conveyor feed to pull stock across the cutterhead at a controlled rate, and your hands stay clear of that feed by design.
So for most people, the answer to whether you need a push block for a thickness planer is no. The machine already does the job, and adding a block to a conveyor feed is unnecessary.
There are exceptions. A portable or small benchtop planer that feeds by hand, or a planer used with the feed rollers disengaged for very short or very thin pieces, still needs a flat push block on the narrow end of the board. That is where the grabby podular soles on the Gator Grip and the MICROJIG earn their keep.
If your planer has a powered feed, spend your effort on feed speed and chip clearance instead. If it feeds by hand, the blocks on this list work, and the two-block technique applies there too.
How to Use a Push Block on a Jointer
Stand on the infeed side, square your feet, and put the block on the narrow end of the board with the sole flat against the face you are about to joint. The heel or end catch should be past the far edge of the board so it can engage at the end of the pass.
Keep both hands on the handle, thumbs wrapped, with your fingers clear of the board edge. The handle position does the work, not your grip strength.
Apply pressure forward and down at the same time. Downward pressure pins the block to the board so the sole does not skate, and forward pressure drives the cut. A block pushed straight back with no downward component will drift.
Feed in one continuous motion across the cutterhead and out the other side. Stopping mid-pass leaves a witness mark, and starting slowly lets the leading corner dig in before the sole is seated.
On a board wider than one block, use two blocks. One goes on the near top corner and one on the far top corner, and you push both at the same rate. It feels awkward for two passes and then it feels obvious.
Then do the part most people skip. Wipe the sole clean, check the pad for wear, and put the block on a hook where you can reach it. A tool you have to search for is a tool you will grab in a hurry.
How to Choose a Push Block That Fits Your Shop
Sizing is the constraint that trips people up, and it is simple arithmetic. A push block bridges your stock, so the block needs to be narrower than the board, not wider. A 3 inch by 6 inch block on a benchtop jointer with a small bed only works on stock wider than about 3 inch, and on anything narrower your hand is riding closer to the cutter than you would like. Our wood jointer roundup for flattening boards goes deeper on which machine suits your volume.
So check the minimum workpiece width your machine handles comfortably, then choose a block footprint smaller than that. A compact base like the Gator Grip works on short pieces and small machines, while a long hold down block like the one in the POWERTEC set earns its length on wide panels.
Grip material is the second decision, and the difference is bigger than most buyers expect. Foam pads, like the 3/16 inch pads on the POWERTEC 2PK, are comfortable and cheap but compress, shed and lose bite over a few months. Users report replacing them and searching for something better. Neoprene is steadier and non-marring.
Podular rubber, the patterned surface on the MICROJIG and Gator Grip pads, is the step up. The pattern gives the sole real mechanical bite rather than relying on surface tack, and the voids give dust somewhere to go instead of forming a slick film. That is why the same block grips on wet, figured stock that makes a plain rubber face skate.
Then there is the end of the board. A block with an auto-retracting or spring-loaded heel holds the far end as you cross the cutterhead, which is where kickback and stock rotation usually start. If you joint rough lumber often, that feature matters more than weight or color.
Handle geometry is easier to get wrong than people expect. An angled or offset handle lets you push into the fence while still pushing down, so the board stays seated. A straight vertical handle forces you to choose between pressure into the fence and pressure onto the sole, and you end up with less of both.
Finally, think about the machines you actually own. A block built for a table saw with a narrow blade tunnel and a fixed heel is often awkward on a jointer, where there is no blade to straddle. Check whether the block is listed for jointers and planers, not just table saws, before you commit.
One honest caveat belongs here. A push block adds a layer of protection, and forum users are consistent on this point, but it does not make a jointer safe on its own. Featherboard, keep push sticks and blocks within reach, wear eye and hearing protection, and stand out of the line of the cutterhead kick path.
There are shop-made options, too. Hobbyists on r/BeginnerWoodWorking report using cheap grout floats as face-jointing push blocks with good results, and shelf liner rubber is a common DIY friction sole. We will not pretend a grout float is a safety device, but for a slow, controlled pass on a board you have already flattened once, it works.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between a push stick and a push block?
A push block is a wide, flat-backed tool that bears down across the top of a workpiece and is used on jointers, planers, shapers and router tables. A push stick is narrow, often L-shaped or tapered, and pushes a board edge-on while it is held against a fence on a table saw or band saw. Use a block for wide flat work and a stick for narrow fence-supported work.
Do I need a push block for my thickness planer?
Usually not. Most thickness planers use a powered conveyor or roller feed that pulls stock across the cutterhead at a controlled rate and keeps your hands clear by design. A push block is only needed on a hand-feed planer, or when you disengage the feed rollers for very short or very thin pieces.
When should you use a push stick?
Use a push stick when the workpiece is narrow and held against a fence, which is the classic table saw rip. The tapered or L-shaped end fits between the blade and the fence, so the board can be fed through without your hand passing the cutting edge. On jointers and planers, use a push block instead.
Are push blocks safe?
A push block adds a real layer of protection by creating a physical barrier between your fingers and the cutterhead, and by absorbing movement at the end of a pass. It is not a guarantee. Woodworking forum users consistently treat it as one layer alongside featherboarding, other push tools, and full eye and hearing protection, never as a replacement for them.
What size push block do I need for a jointer?
Choose a block footprint narrower than your narrowest workpiece. A 3 inch by 6 inch block only bridges stock wider than about 3 inch, so on a benchtop jointer with small stock a compact base is better. Longer blocks suit wide panels, and two blocks cover a board wider than either one can span alone.
Why does my push block slip on the jointer?
The usual causes are a worn or contaminated sole, a board surface that is wet, resinous or dusty, and insufficient downward pressure. Clean the pad with rubbing alcohol, check for a compressed or shedding foam face, and push forward and down at the same time so the sole stays seated rather than skating.
Which should I buy first, a jointer or a planer?
For most home shops the jointer comes first, because rough lumber has to be flattened and squared before a planer can do useful work on it. A planer needs flat, stable input to run well, so buying one first means a second machine to do the flattening later.
Final Verdict: The Best Push Blocks for Jointers and Planers in 2026
The MICROJIG GRR-RIP-BLOCK is our pick for the best push blocks for jointers and planers, because the podular sole grips on rough, wet and figured stock where foam and plain rubber fail, and the auto-retracting hooks hold the far end of the board at the moment you are most exposed.
If you want more authority over heavy boards, the POWERTEC Grab is the pick, and if you want adjustability for anything from full-width jointing to thin rips, the Milescraft GrabberPRO covers more ground than anything else here. Whichever one you choose, buy it for a jointer first and treat it as one layer of safety rather than the whole answer.